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How To Make Lash Fans
Creating volume lash fans is an art form. It is a skill that requires lots of practice and consistent refinement. There are many methods to create lash fans for different styling effects. Below is a simple guide to making lash fans.
What Makes A Perfect Fan
A perfect fan features symmetrical spacing between each lash, a tapered base, and a properly sized adhesive zone. When dipped into lash glue, the adhesive will not travel up and close your fan.
The number of lashes in your fan determines its density.
Always keep the weight of the fan on the natural lash in mind:
- Mega volume fans: use 0.03 diameter lashes
- 9D fans: use 0.05 diameter lashes
- Fans made with 0.07 lashes: maximum 5D. Any heavier will put too much stress on natural lashes and may cause damage.
Lash weight must be considered every time you make fans. Your client’s natural lash health should always be your top priority.
Narrow Fans vs Wide Fans
The width of your fan changes the final look of the lash set.
- Narrow fan: creates a dense, uniform lash line
- Wide fan: delivers a fluffier finish
Consistency creates a seamless uniform set. Mix narrow and wide fans together for a soft, wispy lash look.
Lash Fan Techniques
1. Wiggle Technique
This is a popular method, best performed with a swan curve tweezer or boot tweezer.
Separate the required number of lashes from the strip (do not fully pull off yet). Gently wiggle the lashes with your tweezers while adjusting your grip.
Once you form your ideal fan, pull it off the strip. Carefully dip the base into adhesive and apply it to the natural lash.
The wiggle technique creates a stacked base, ideal for attaching to the side of the natural lash.
2. Pinching Technique
Pinching is perfect for creating high-density mega volume fans using 0.03 / 0.04 lashes.
Use a swan angled curve tweezer to pick your desired number of lashes off the strip.
Most artists use their thumb and forefinger; some use the knuckle of the forefinger to pinch the fan base. Adjust your tweezer grip to form a beautiful wide-open fan. Keep a firm hold on your tweezers as you release the base and dip into adhesive.
A pinched fan has a stacked base that can be shaped into a fine point, wrapping seamlessly around the natural lash.
3. Pick Up and Place Technique
This method creates flat-based fans, suitable for attaching to the top or bottom of the natural lash.
Separate your lashes, pull them from the strip, then lay them back down onto the strip.
Use the tip of your tweezers to roll the fan on the tacky strip. Keep the base intact while letting the lash tips open into a fan. Secure the fan with a steady grip and dip into adhesive.
This technique makes it easy to maintain symmetry between lashes and produce consistent fans for a flawless lash set.
Types of Fan Bases
Thin Base
Thin base fans can be attached anywhere on the natural lash. They wrap around the natural lash for great retention while protecting lash health.
Flat Base
Flat base fans can only be placed on the top or bottom of the natural lash. They cannot wrap around the natural lash like thin base fans. The benefit is a darker-looking lash line.
Stacked Base
Stacked bases are typically created with the pinching technique. They work best when applied to the side of the natural lash.
Final Tip
Aim for thin, neat fan bases. Fans with clean bases are much easier to make symmetrical.
Always check for stickies at the base of your fans. Ensure every natural lash is fully isolated to protect your client’s lash health.